![]() It’s cross-culturally clever and drive-across-town good. None of which prepares you for this: Taurus Ox makes, indisputably, one of the best burgers in town, a pair of proper smash patties, two versions of the condiment jeaw, house-cured pork jowl in place of bacon. Co-owner Khampaeng Panyathong does right by his mom’s sausage recipe, all texture and lemongrass, not to mention khao soi, phad lao, and a punchy papaya salad. The space is tiny and piled with implements for the open kitchen. Tamari Bar suspends time in that convivially hazy hour just before last call, especially after a few Toki highballs-but this food’s too smart to be gimmicky. Which explains why his Pine Street bar serves pristine sushi next to poutine, dan dan ramen, furikake brussels sprouts, and a nine-compartment bento box of miniature bites. Makoto Kimoto used to cook in Vancouver’s rollicking izakaya scene. Fried chicken comes with a variety of dry and wet seasonings, but spring for the fuck-it bucket and you can tote home three pounds of nuggets with furikake fries. Which explains the crowds at his tiny karaage bar (21-and-up, with a busy all-ages walkup counter). Seattle diners loved Shota Nakajima long before his fan-favorite turn on Top Chef. The chef’s background in the highest of high-end restaurants informs intelligent explorations of the flavor crossroads of Vietnam and China, from master stock crispy chicken to Vietnamese iced coffee creamsicles. Eric Johnson’s food is similarly singular, even in a town with superb Vietnamese food of all stripes. This dining room doesn’t look like anything in Seattle-a balmy subtropical paradise of palm-fronded wallpaper and minty accents. Danbo also serves one of the better vegan ramen broths in existence. The tonkotsu broth is an achievement on its own but comes with a ton of ways you can customize. location stands out, even amid a surge of great ramen on the Hill. But chef Manny Arce has an underheralded talent for accessible tacos, salads, and platos that don’t feel dumbed down. Restaurant decor gods James Weimann and Deming Maclise tricked out their Mexican restaurant with the same maximalist glamor as its showy siblings (Stoneburner, Rhein Haus, et al.).
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